Why go?

Forget Sydney with its single grand harbour, Auckland has three of them, ringing a city stretched across a North Island isthmus to connect two oceans. Dramatic black-sand beaches – Karekare, Piha, Anawhata and Bethells – face the Tasman surf, while golden-sanded Takapuna beckons on the Pacific shore. Add a retinue of magnificent islands, a cityscape of sweeping parkland and laidback, historic neighbourhoods straddling four dozen dormant volcanoes. The Maori name for the area is Tamaki Makaurau – ‘the maiden with a hundred suitors’. Why argue?

What to do

Take to the water! Just a 25-minute ferry ride from the city is Rangitoto, a landmark volcanic island rising out of Waitemata Harbour, where you can explore bushland by foot or 4WD. For a less energetic option, take the 45-minute ferry ride to Waiheke Island for its vineyards, winery restaurants and Connells Bay Sculpture Park. Nature lovers will relish the chance to spot orca, dolphins and Bryde’s whales on a five-hour ocean safari in the Hauraki Gulf. Swapping ship for shore, 19th-century Parnell is the place for upscale retail, while bohemian Ponsonby is awash with cafés. Lose yourself in the vast green swaddle of Auckland Domain, the city’s oldest park, or let your jaw drop at the panoramas from its volcanic sisters Mount Eden and One Tree Hill. New Zealand celebrates its cultural heritage at the Auckland Museum (aucklandmuseum.com) – try to catch a haka performance – and Te Hana Te Ao Marama, a reconstructed 17th-century Maori village.

Where to stay

Perched above St Mary’s Bay, Mollies (00 64 9376 3489, mollies.co.nz) is an 1870s villa that once housed Auckland’s first mayor in some style. Today its 13 suites artfully blend period and contemporary, with balconies, open fires and eye-catching art. Surrounded by the fashion stores on High Street in the city centre, Hotel DeBrett (00 64 9925 9000, hoteldebrett.com) oozes luxury chic in an 1840s building that was one of Auckland’s first hotels. Its 25 stylish rooms are complemented by an award-winning atrium restaurant and the art deco-styled Housebar. Close to downtown, Ascot Parnell B&B (00 64 9309 9012, ascotparnell.com) boasts a trio of spacious suites within a 21st-century design-led lodge that has a garden pool and city views.

Where to eat and drink

Tuned-in contemporary chefs, a vibrant Asian food scene and thriving café culture mean Auckland rivals Sydney and Vancouver for Pacific Rim dining. The tasting menus at chef Michael Meredith’s eponymous Mount Eden restaurant (00 64 9623 3140, merediths.co.nz) feature Waikanae crab with asparagus and daikon, and pork belly, calamari and pomegranate, while at Clooney (00 64 9358 1702, clooney.co.nz) chef Desmond Harris produces equally stunning combos, such as pig, sunchoke, rosemary, celery and apple. Bellota (00 64 9363 6000, skycityauckland.co.nz) is celebrity chef Peter Gordon’s take on tapas. The laidback Engine Room (00 64 9480 9502, engineroom.net.nz) serves award-winning rustic cooking in an old post office, while The Depot Eatery (00 64 9363 7048, eatatdepot.co.nz) majors on prime local produce cooked over charcoal or wood. The Hip Asian title is hard-fought hereabouts. Elevated Vietnamese street food at Café Hanoi (00 64 9302 3478, cafehanoi.co.nz) vies for top spot with the tasting menus at beautifully minimalist Cocoro (00 64 9360 0927, cocoro.co.nz). For the city’s best lamingtons – NZ’s coconut-coated sweet classic – take a seat at Agnes Curran (00 64 9360 1551) on Ponsonby Road. Sink a few cocktails while people-watching at Soul Bar and Bistro (00 64 9356 7249, soulbar.co.nz), located right on the edge of Viaduct Harbour.

Time running out?

Take a jet boat tour (aucklandjetboattours.co.nz), spinning along the city coastline and across Waitemata Harbour and Hauraki Gulf in 35 adrenaline-pumped minutes, with high-speed 180 and 270 degree turns along the way.

Travel Information

Travel Information

Currency is the New Zealand dollar. Auckland is 13 hours ahead of GMT and is a 23 hour and 45 minute flight from London.

Getting There

Air New Zealand (airnewzealand.com) to Auckland from London Heathrow, travelling via Los Angeles.
Singapore Airlines (singaporeair.com) flies from London Heathrow to Auckland via Singapore.

Resources

New Zealand Tourism (newzealand.com) provides detailed information on all aspects of planning a trip to Auckland.