111521 Gourmet Travel 10

Brussels - Belgium

Belgium’s quirky capital is just two hours’ train ride from central London – and its bar and restaurant scene is worth the trip alone, says Jonathan Thompson

Travel Time 2hrs 10min

Why go?

Do you like beer? Belgium boasts about 160 breweries and hundreds of native brews, all of which are waiting to be sampled in its lively capital. From the smooth, sharp De Koninck to the blow-your-chaussettes-off Delirium Tremens, there’s something for everybody. And the bars will be even more bustling during Winter Wonders, one of Europe’s best Christmas markets, from 27 November to 3 January. It all makes the perfect excuse for an affordable and immensely enjoyable weekend away.

What to do

With a honeycomb-like centre, Brussels sprouts boulevards, avenues and alleyways in all directions – but each of them eventually spirals back to the Grand Place, the beautiful medieval square at its core. From this starting point, you can walk pretty much anywhere in the city, including the engaging Belgian Comic Strip Center comicscenter.net a must-see for fans of Tintin or The Smurfs in particular. The reading room is a hit with adults and children alike. From here, it’s another short walk to the Magritte Museum museemagrittemuseum.be a world- class museum dedicated to Belgian surrealist René Magritte. Afterwards, it’s time to pick up a few goodies at Les Galeries Royales Saint-Hubert grsh.be – a Victorian glazed shopping arcade next to the Grand Place where some of Belgium’s finest handmade chocolates are to be found (and tasted).

Where to stay

Locals here in the European capital of diplomacy used to call the Hôtel Saint-Géry 00 32 2204 0620, hotelstgery.com a ‘hotel with no suitcases’. In other words, a brothel. That was until four years ago, when the property on hip Place Saint-Géry was snapped up by a businessman, who renovated the interior and switched off the red light for good. It’s now one of the hottest boutique hotels in town. For something a little more luxurious, The Hotel 00 32 2504 1111, thehotelbrussels.be on Boulevard de Waterloo has beautiful facilities, crowned by a 23rd-floor spa boasting incredible views of the skyline. If you’re here on more of a budget, then the funky Zoom Hotel 00 32 2515 0060, zoomhotel.be just off chic shopping thoroughfare Avenue Louise. Brussels residents were asked to take snaps of their city, and 400 images were selected to adorn the walls of the hotel. In the bar, take your pick from 50 top-notch Belgian beers.

Where to eat and drink

For a pre-dinner tipple, two of Brussels’ finest pubs are both very central and, be warned, rather well hidden. Au Bon Vieux Temps 00 32 2217 2626, a Gothic- looking gem with stained-glass windows, is tucked down Impasse Saint-Nicolas, a stone’s throw from the Grand Place. The Toone theatre 00 32 2513 5486, toone.be on Rue du Marché aux Herbes has its own traditional marionette show as well as one of the city’s most impressive beer menus in its bar. Afterwards, head for dinner at the wonderfully quaint Les Petits Oignons on Rue de la Régence 00 32 2511 7615, lespetitsoignons.be, which serves brasserie-style dishes like steak tartare, mussels and sole meunière. Across town in the Ixelles district you can find a number of excellent options too, including La Quincaillerie 00 32 2533 9833, quincaillerie.be for its fish and lobster feasts. For a fine-dining experience, push the boat out and head for the luxurious Belga Queen 00 32 2217 2187, belgaqueen.be on Rue Fossé aux Loups. Finish the evening with a nightcap at the newly opened Green Lab 00 32 471 56 58 49, greenlab.bar on Avenue Louise – a cocktail bar stocking over 200 varieties of gin. Moules-frites might get the glory, but there’s a second national dish close to Belgian hearts: stoemp (a rich potato mash with bacon, shallots, cream and herbs). Treat yourself to a quick, steaming bowl of this ultimate comfort food at stoemp specialists Madame Chapeau, 00 32 2 514 40 44, madamechapeau.be

Time running out?

Rue Antoine Dansaert is a fashion quarter that’s great for window-shopping and people-watching.

Map

Travel Information

Travel Information

Currency is the euro. Brussels is one hour ahead of GMT and a two-hour train journey or 70-minute flight from London. The cost to carbon-offset is £0. 81, climatecare.org

Getting There

Brussels Airlines This Belgian carrier flies to the capital from London Heathrow daily. brusselsairlines.com

Eurostar runs a daily service to Brussels. eurostar.com

Resources

Belgian Tourist Office – Brussels & Wallonia offers tips and advice for seeing both city and beyond. belgiumtheplaceto.be

Average daily temperatures and rainfall

JanFebMarAprMayJunJulAugSepOctNovDec
Min Temp1034811131211732
Max Temp5591217192222181486
mm222211112322

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