Gibraltar 23

Gibraltar - Gibralta

A British territory packed full of history, diverse cuisine, theatrical geology and monkeys makes Gibraltar ideal for a short break, says Lauren Steventon.

Travel Time 2hrs 30min

Why go?

For unexpected history and a taste of Britishness in the heart of the Med. Although perfect for an easy weekend in the sun, Gibraltar offers much more than sunbathing. To Neanderthal man, it was home; to the Greeks, the northern Pillar of Hercules. And for centuries, the British and Spanish fought bloody battles to maintain possession of this strategic military stronghold. The whole area is an interactive exhibit celebrating its eclectic past.

What to do

The actual limestone Rock dominates the skyline, so make this your first stop. Hire a registered taxi tour, or hop on the cable car; the latter stops in the Upper Rock reserve, home to one of the resident groups of Barbary ‘apes’ (they are, in fact, monkeys). These are the only wild primates in Europe and legend says that when they leave the Rock, so will the British. This caused Churchill such concern that he bolstered dwindling numbers during the Second Word War with a few imports from Africa. Follow the path downhill to St Michael’s Cave, a huge natural cavern full of giant stalagmites and stalactites that is used as a unique theatre venue. Adventurous travellers who plan ahead can explore its dark tunnels on the guided Lower Cave Tour, which involves some climbing with ropes (00 350 200 71871). Not all of the caves in the rock are natural wonders, though. Towards the north, tunnels were dug during the Great Siege in the 18th century to provide a defence system against the Spanish. These became part of a much larger tunnel network during the Second World War, creating an underground ‘city’ for soldiers in the event of invasion. The rest of Gibraltar is easily explored on foot or on board the number 3 and 4 buses (£1. 50 for an all-day ticket). Travel to Rosia, past the Earl of St Vincent’s home, where Nelson was a frequent visitor, and Rosia Bay, where the Victory was anchored after the Battle of Trafalgar. Or head onwards to Europa Point where the mountains of north Africa are visible across the Strait on a clear day. On the return journey, alight at The Trafalgar Cemetery and walk down Main Street to Gibraltar Crystal’s handmade glassware (00 350 200 50136). Continue to Casemates Square where you’ll find fine buildings with tales to tell: old military offices have become homes, ancient convents are now public buildings, and the foundations of the excellent Gibraltar Museum on Bomb House Lane are Moorish baths dating from the 11th century. Cross over to Ocean Village and catch a glimpse of Gibraltar’s other famous residents on a Dolphin Safari (dolphinsafari.com).

Where to stay

A chic favourite of visiting celebrities and dignitaries, The Rock Hotel (00 350 200 73000, rockhotelgibraltar.com) is an institution. The pool across the road is lovely and shady after a day’s exploring in the sun. Slightly more central are the family-run Cannon Hotel (00 350 200 51711, cannonhotel.gi) or O’Callaghan Eliott Hotel (00 350 200 70500, ocallaghanhotels.com), where the Thursday night jazz is legendary.

Where to eat and drink

Gibraltar’s cuisine is as diverse as its history; dishes from Spain, Malta, Morocco and the UK all appear on the collective menu. A local breakfast favourite is Sacarello’s (00 350 200 70625) which has been roasting its own coffee since 1888. Lunch at Café Solo (00 350 200 44449) allows you to people-watch in Casemates Square while savouring home-made apple, cinnamon and date chutney with goat’s cheese. La Mamela (00 350 200 72373) in Catalan Bay offers a Spanish menu and market-fresh fish overlooking the beach and Charlie’s (00 350 200 79993) does great steak in a funky setting beside the marina. But for something really special, head to The Waterfront in Queensway Quay (00 350 200 45666). Try the spicy crab and ask director Tim for his perfect wine match.

Time running out?

Gibraltar Time Tunnel in Ocean Village is the first holographic cinema in the world. The lively 3D tale of Gibraltar’s history, presented by an animated ape, is impressive, informative and fun – especially for kids.

Map

Travel Information

Travel Information

Currency is sterling or Gibraltar pound. Gibraltar is one hour ahead of GMT and a two and a half hour flight from London.

Getting There

Easyjet (easyjet.com) flies to Gibraltar from London Gatwick. Monarch (monarch.co.uk) flies from London Luton and Manchester.

Resources

Visit Gibraltar (00 350 200 74950, visitgibraltar.gi) has information on the history, culture and wildlife.

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