Philippines 000027Quezon Bvd Quiapo

Manila

Walk along the colonial city walls, soak up the Spanish old town and delve into the throng of fish markets. This skyscraper city is full of surprises, says Lizzie Frainier

Travel Time 18hrs 10min

Why go?

A confluence of architecture and culture greets you in this megacity – as skyscrapers tower above Spanish churches dating back to the conquistadors and the bustling streets of the oldest Chinatown in the world. Former US army jeeps rattle around as makeshift buses (‘jeepneys’), and away from the Philippines’ tangle of islands and glorious beaches visitors to the capital will be entertained by events like the Aliwan Fiesta – 14-16 April aliwanfiesta.com.ph – with its huge parades and street dancers.

What to do

Leave the bright lights of the modern city behind and step back in time to the old Spanish city of Intramuros. Manila’s oldest district dates back to the 16th century. Explore on bamboo bikes with Bambike bambike.com and hop off to see sights like the city walls, complete with gates and forts; Unesco-listed San Agustin church with its trompe l’oeil frescoes; and Casa Manila, a museum of colonial life. Nearby in the harbour, you can have an up close and personal Sharks and Rays Encounter at Manila Ocean Park manilaoceanpark.com then head south along Macapagal Boulevard to sample one of the city’s best dampas (seafood markets). Pick out fish from noisy vendors jostling for attention before handing over your shopping bags to local restaurants. Ask them to lightly grill blue marlin steaks and steam salmon in soy sauce and sesame oil. Respite from the heat can be found at SM Mall of Asia, so large it boasts a 20-seater tram that shuttles shoppers around. Rizal Park offers a more cultured outing, being home to the National Museum of the Filipino People nationalmuseum.gov.ph and Chinese and Japanese gardens.

Where to stay

Hosting everyone from the likes of Ernest Hemingway to General MacArthur and The Beatles, The Manila Hotel 00 63 2 527 0011, manilahotel.com.ph is a Philippine landmark with bay views and standout service. Cool off at the poolside bar or dine amid crystal palm trees in the Champagne Room. Vibrant colours abound at The Picasso 00 63 (2) 828 4774, picassomakati – stylish serviced apartments where you can expect dark gold and olive green in the Andalusia rooms, and royal blues and reds in the Montparnasse Suite. The fourth floor hosts a local art gallery. Fairmont Makati 00 63 2 795 1888, fairmont.com/makati will place you slap bang in the middle of the business district. Set over 30 floors, it has bedrooms with floor-to- ceiling windows and skyline views. Head downstairs and through the private underground walkway for direct access to neighbouring shopping malls with a much-needed blast of air-con.

Where to eat and drink

Thanks to the diversity of cultures, fusion food has long been popular in Manila. Start off your food tour in Binondo (Chinatown) at Ma Mon Luk 00 63 2 733 7596. It’s a bare-bones place, but the classic Filipino-Chinese dishes are a locals’ favourite. Said to have dished up the first mami (noodles and meat in a hot broth) in the country, it also serves a mean steamed pork dumpling called siopao. Cirkulo Restaurant 00 63 2 810 8735, elcirkulo.com taps into 400 years of Spanish influence with its plates of paella negra (baby prawns, squid ink and sea bass) and Filipino dishes like sisig (spicy dish from suckling pig’s head). La Cocina de Tita Moning 00 63 2 734 2141, offers a more traditional culinary experience. Tour the owner’s elegant ancestral home before feasting on gazpacho and slow-roasted pork. At Café Juanita 00 63 2 632 0357 savour more home cooking like kare-kare stew made from oxtail and roasted peanuts. End your night sipping on a mint julep with freshly picked mint at speakeasy Blind Pig 00 63 917 549 2264; the quality is no surprise with bartenders trained by London cocktail institution Milk & Honey.

Time running out?

Hop aboard a ferry bound for Corregidor Island to discover its once vital role as a fortress protecting the Philippines during the Second World War.

Map

Travel Information

Travel Information

Currency is the Philippine peso. Manila is 8 hours ahead of the UK and journey time from London is about 18 hours. The cost to carbon offset is £23.97, visit climatecare.org

Getting There

Etihad Airways flies several times daily from London Heathrow to Manila via Abu Dhabi. etihad.com

Turkish Airlines flies via Istanbul. turkishairlines.com

Resources

Philippine Department of Tourism offers advice and tips on what to see and do, at tourism.gov.ph

Average daily temperatures and rainfall

JanFebMarAprMayJunJulAugSepOctNovDec
Min Temp212222242525242323232322
Max Temp303132333332313031303030
mm100149131311642

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