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Palma - Spain

Once reviled as the place where ‘water don’t taste like what it oughta’, Majorca is now escaping its package-holiday past, with the capital leading the way, says Mark Sansom.

Travel Time 1hrs 10min

Why go?

The Majorcan capital has long been a haven of late- summer-sun-seeking Brits. More upmarket than most of the island’s beach-and-sangria resorts, the city has a genuine feel of old Spain, spliced with Gothic architecture, modern hotels and, of course, tapas by the truck (with a little modern shopping thrown in).

What to do

With a Sunseeker yacht-stacked marina and the accompanying high-end restaurants, the port is the place to don the espadrilles and oversized shades and spend an afternoon people watching. If you’re lucky enough to arrive by yacht, the first thing you’ll see is La Seu, the sprawling 1229 sandstone cathedral. Gaudi designed some of its more controversial features, like the Crown of Thorns, before quitting the project before completion. If you’re not mooring up, use it as a reference point to navigate your day. Start on the harbourside and meander north past the five windmills that line the path to Plaça Major, the city’s main square. Take coffee and churros in one of the cafés on the perimeter, watching the street performers that are in situ from 9am. From there, take your second hit of architectural excellence at Poble Espanyol, a series of reproductions built under Franco in the Seventies of some of Spain’s most famous buildings: the Alhambra in Granada; Puerta de Bisagra in Toledo and Seville’s Torre del Oro. Finish an afternoon with a trawl along Avinguda Jaume III for its designer boutiques. Admire your wares in Parc de la Mar, one of the city’s best suntraps with some stellar ice-cream sellers.

Where to stay

There’s enough in Palma to suit any style, taste or budget. We’re fans of Hotel Cort hotelcort.com a clean- lined, urban space in the affluent shopping district with a bar serving excellent cocktails. The minimalist Convent de la Missió conventdelamissio.com opened in 2004 to huge fanfare. Elegant and well styled, it also plays host to the Michelin-starred Simply Fosh, manned by Brit chef Mark Fosh with the high-end haute cuisine you’d expect. For something a little more traditional, try Santa Clara Urban Hotel & Spa santaclarahotel.es in the heart of the old town. The grand building couldn’t have a more central location, with an excellent spa and a roof terrace with panoramic views into town and out to sea.

Where to eat and drink

For an afternoon on the playa, Nassau Beach Club nassaubeachpalma.com is the perfect setting for sun, sea and cocktails. Its views over the La Seu cathedral and Portixol harbour are unrivalled and it serves just the kind of light lunch you want – burrata and tomato or grilled fish, say – that are perfectly in tune with the setting. For something authentically Majorcan, the cavernous Celler Sa Premsa cellersapremsa.com is a safe bet. Great value, with tapas around the £3 mark, expect local dishes like pamb oli (bread rubbed with tomato and garlic) or conill amb cepa (rabbit and onion). For a marquee meal, try Restaurante Santa Eulàlia 00 34 971 726 499. Clearly influenced by the Basque modernist cuisine movement, the menu is a cavalcade of deconstructions and reconstructions, denuded by sculpted meringues made to look like sushi. For a late afternoon pick-me-up, hit the ice- cream parlour Giovanni L giovannil.com with a range to rival any Italian gelateria. For pre-dinner drinks, Sky Bar at Hostal Cuba hotelhostalcuba.com is the city’s best. Already home to Palma’s best nightclub, it now has an open-plan space and roof terrace overlooking the marina. Try the wines at Wineing wineing.es for a taste of the finest Spanish drops. Simply serve yourself, swipe the pre-pay card and settle up at the end.

Time running out?

Take afternoon tea at the 315-year-old Ca’n Joan de S’aigo canjoandesaigo.cat hidden among the labyrinthine streets of the old town. Try its thick hot chocolate, ensaïmadas (sugared pastries) and almond ice cream.

Map

Travel Information

Travel Information

Currency in Spain is the euro. Time is one hour ahead of the UK. Flight time is about two hours from London. The cost to carbon offset is £4.75, climatecare.org

Getting There

British Airways operates regular flights to Palma, departing from several London airports. ba.com

Ryanair flies direct from London Stansted. ryanair.com

Resources

majorcamallorca.co.uk is a prime source of all events and attractions in the city, with a handy navigation guide.

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