48 Hours  Rotterdam   203  Claire  Droppert

Rotterdam - Holland

There’s a lot to like about this modern Dutch city, what with its exciting food scene, youthful, arty atmosphere and enduring maritime culture, discovers Alicia Miller.

Travel Time 3hrs 30min

Why go?

Edgy and gritty, Rotterdam might lack the historic districts of Amsterdam or Haarlem, but instead it boasts a vibrant sense of possibility that you won’t find in many cities. Rotterdam vanished from the map during the Second World War; when the centre was bombed by the Germans it was totally destroyed, and while the tragedy still resounds in the collective memory of its populace, it has also made a place where change is the norm. As residents remark, anything is possible here, and the rapid transformations of the past 60-odd years will likely continue for the next 60, or more. Come here for a burgeoning arts scene, a blossoming local food culture, and the salty charm of a working maritime city.

What to do

The oldest part of the city is the area surrounding the central square, Blaak, which on Saturdays hosts the country’s largest outdoor market and is home to St Laurence’s Church, one of the few surviving original buildings. Nearby Nieuwemarkt boasts antique shops and niche Dutch goods and furniture stores, as well as some cafés and restaurants. Stroll south towards the city ports and marvel at the ships; the Maritime Museum (maritiemmuseum.nl) on Leuvehaven showcases the city’s naval history in impressive detail. Across the water in Laurenskwartier, architecture buffs can flock to the Piet Blom cube homes and Europe’s first ‘skyscraper’, the boxy Witte Huis – both symbols of Rotterdam’s artistic innovation. The city’s west end contains some of its prettiest neighbourhoods; here you’ll find Museum Rotterdam Het Schielandshuis (schielandshuis.nl) in a preserved 17th century building. Scale the Euromast Tower (euromast.nl), which at 100 metres is the highest observation point in the Netherlands, and ride the rotating lift for a panoramic view of the buildings and park below. Rotterdam’s museum quarter is focused around Witte de Withstraat; visit the Museum Boijmans van Beuningen (boijmans.nl) for its extensive assembly of Dutch and surrealist pieces. The smaller Kunsthal (kunsthal.nl) doesn’t hold a permanent collection, but hosts around 25 innovative exhibits each year.

Where to stay

With guaranteed views over the iconic Erasmus bridge, the Panorama tower in Inntelhotel Rotterdam (00 31 10 413 4139, designhotelrotterdam.com) seems to lay the docks of this maritime metropolis at your feet. Rooms are simple, modern and streamlined, though still cosy, and the junior suites feature a private sauna or sunshower. The Rotterdam Marriott Hotel (00 31 10 430 2000; marriott.com) is located near the central train station and has a brasserie and bar.

Where to eat and drink

Trendy organic cafés and ethnic eateries rub shoulders with Michelin-starred restaurants in this multicultural, food-filled city. Grab a freshly baked scone and a latte at Picknick (picknickrotterdam.nl), or indulge in herb and flower-flavoured fudges, marshmallows and biscuits for afternoon tea at Lof der Zoetheid (00 31 10 265 0070, lofderzoetheid.com), in the city’s north; pop into the excellent kitchen store, Kookpunt (00 31 10 443 1077, kookpunt.nl) next door. See and be seen at Herman den Blijker’s (‘Holland’s Gordon Ramsay’) Las Palmas (00 31 10 234 5122), a fish and meat restaurant on the pier. The bustling atmosphere and open kitchen make for good entertainment, and grilled langoustines and tender Dutch beef with puréed parsnip are particular highlights. Next door, landmark Hotel New York (hotelnewyork.nl) has a buzzing, atmospheric bar. If you weren’t already in Rotterdam, Michelin-starred FG(00 31 10 425 0520, fgrestaurant.nl) would almost be worth the trip; chef François Geurds worked at the Fat Duck and his quirky, playful combinations reflect this. Expect popping candy, savoury macarons, dry-ice cocktails, and a menu made from edible paper.

Time running out?

If you need to get somewhere in a hurry, nothing beats a ride on a water taxi (watertaxirotterdam.nl). The boats can be ordered to any of the city docks, for a price.

Map

Travel Information

Travel Information

Rotterdam is around 3 hours and 30 minutes by train via Brussels or a 1 hour flight from London.

Getting There

Rail Europe (raileurope.co.uk) operates frequent services from London Euston to Brussels, and then onwards to Rotterdam
CityJet (cityjet.com) operates regular services from London City to Rotterdam airport.

Resources

Rotterdam Tourism (00 31 10 271 01 20; rotterdam.info) provides all the information you need to plan a visit.

Average daily temperatures and rainfall

JanFebMarAprMayJunJulAugSepOctNovDec
Min Temp1023711131210742
Max Temp5581116182021171396
mm222122223332

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