Why go?

With the constant play of light on waves, jumble of slate-roofed cottages and the simply epic Cornish coastline, it’s no surprise that St Ives has inspired generations of artists and free-thinkers. The narrow streets are lined with craft shops and galleries, including the most southern outpost of the Tate. The tiny train station is still in service, which means you can chug merrily into the centre and walk to your hotel, so no need to descend into summer holiday motorway hell. In fact, from the four sandy beaches to the excellent seafood restaurants, everything is strollable in this town. Don your deck shoes and head south.

What to do

Summer days in St Ives are best spent outdoors. Start with a morning amble to the harbour and look out for seals hunting among the fishing boats. Then wander up Fore Street to the Allotment Deli 01736 794 578, and fill your basket with artisan bread, Cornish Blue (named best cheese in the world at the 2010 Cheese Awards) and its renowned caramel slices before striding out on the South West Coast Path. To get even closer to the dramatic scenery, try coasteering off Porthminster Beach. St Ives Surf School 01736 793 938, stivessurfschool.co.uk experts will guide you across gullies and into hidden caves. Spend the afternoon snoozing under the shade of your favourite sun hat on any of the coves. In the Second World War, St Ives became a haven for many British artists, including Barbara Hepworth. Visit her house and garden tate.org.uk which is filled with whimsical sculptures. There are also plenty of independent galleries where you’ll meet interesting creatives. The team at Bernard Leach Pottery Studio 01736 799 703, leachpottery.com makes stylish ceramics using a palette like the sea on a cloudy morning, or head to the Downlong area and join the collective at Back Road Artworks 01736 791 571, backroadartworks.co.uk for a multimedia workshop.

Where to stay

The town’s cobbled streets house plenty of stylish, intimate hideaways without a chain in sight. Angela and Olivier Noverraz designed Trevose Harbour House 01736 793 267, trevosehouse.co.uk to feel like an ultra-stylish living space and all six rooms and new Sands Studio have individual features such as designer fabrics and bedside tables made of vintage globetrotters. A champagne picnic and in-room massage are little extras that will make your break feel special. Directly above Porthminster Beach, No.27 The Terrace 01736 797 450, 27theterrace.co.uk is a Georgian guesthouse with nine rooms and a lovely walled garden. A little further out, Carbis Bay Hotel 01736 795 311, carbisbayhotel.co.uk is set in 50ha of sub-tropical grounds rolling down to Carbis Bay, which has sugar-like sand. All 47 rooms are well designed but the views from the deluxe suites are unbeatable.

Where to eat and drink

Lunchtime on a sunny afternoon simply cries out for the terrace at Porthmeor Beach Café 01736 793 366, porthmeor-beach.co.uk where you can enjoy the sea breeze, prosecco cocktails and tapas made from locally sourced ingredients. In August you should book; if you miss out, walk to West Beach Bakery 01736 795 843, for sourdough pizza and sangria. They’re both owned by the family who run St Ives Surf School so be sure to plunder the staff’s knowledge about where to find the best swell. We love The Loft 01736 794 204, theloftrestaurantant.co.uk for its rare-breed steaks (phone ahead if you have a particular cut in mind) and whipped butter studded with crunchy salt. While there is stiff competition when it comes to seafood restaurants, Alba 01736 797 222, albastives.co.uk is our pick for a formal dinner thanks to its impeccably sourced plates.

Time running out?

The farmers’ market in the Guildhall (Thursdays 9.30am-2pm) offers a delicious taste of west Cornwall’s larder. All stallholders are based within 30 minutes of St Ives. stivesfarmersmarket.co.uk

Travel Information

Travel Information

Getting There

First Great Western has hourly services from London Paddington to St Ives via St Erth, which take around six hours. gwr.com

Flybe provides three flights a day from London Gatwick to Newquay, which is an hour’s drive from St Ives. flybe.com

National Express offers daily direct coach services to St Ives, which take around eight and a half hours. Alternatively you can change in Plymouth, which takes nine hours. nationalexpress.com

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