In Season - April
Are you a picker or a piler? When it comes to eating crab, the world divides in two: those who steadily, if somewhat messily, pick and eat morsels as they go, and those who play the long game and fastidiously excavate the crab meat into a neat mound to be eaten in self-satisfied delayed gratification. Whichever approach you favour, the rewards repay all that pulling, cracking, picking and poking of the crustacean’s nooks and crannies; the exploration of its many hidden pockets of contrasting textures and flavours. It always strikes me as curious that the removal of all the meat is called ‘dressing’ a crab, when you would have thought the opposite applied as you strip it bare.