Christopher’s

18 Wellington St, London WC2E 7DD

You will have walked past this Theatreland Stalwart many times without knowing what’s behind the doors of the Grade II-listed townhouse. Previously a brothel and the first licensed casino in the city, it seems fitting that the entrance is a quiet affair these days. Keeping in theme with its illustrious past, its martini bar gives a sense of glamorous 1930s New York; a vibe that pervades throughout.

While the restaurant has passed hands from politician Christopher Gilmour, who opened it in 1991, to steel magnate heir Ambar Paul, the signature dining style remains: classy American cuisine.The menu offers reasonably priced pre- and post-theatre suppers. On our visit, the expected flood of jobbing thesps and over-excited (read: mildly annoying) families were surprisingly (pleasingly) absent from the art deco dining room that is decorated in a smart heritage colour palette. Rather, friends chatted over champagne, business pals from nearby chambers loosened their ties and parents caught up with university-break sons introducing their new flames.

It’s not just burgers and steak on offer (though they are a solid pick) but a mélange of dishes and flavours that take on an almost Ellis Island- level culinary diversity. A pan-Asian starter of tuna tartare from the raw bar was fresh as can be, served with guacamole, coriander coleslaw and a zingy ginger and tamari dressing, while the velvety Jersualem artichoke velouté emerged with a gloriously colourful Jackson Pollock-esque swirl of smoky chorizo picante and pesto crème fraîche. Blackened shrimps with a bold black bean salsa and courgette corn cake transported us to the Deep South, while a classic grilled lobster in garlic butter for main course had us thinking of Maine. For sides, the generous portion of crisp, sweet and herby tobacco onions is not to be missed. Desserts are rich, so be sure to save room. The playfully nostalgic peach Melba with Amaretto-poached peaches and gutsy raspberry ice cream was our pick of the lot – so good that we can forgive the unnecessary addition of popping candy.

Be sure to request a table next to one of the tall windows and enjoy views over bustling Waterloo Bridge from a perspective you won’t have seen before.