Four pinot noirs to savour

If you're after a lighter red that still packs plenty of flavour and is a versatile partner for food, opt for pinor noir. James Hickson, co-owner and wine expert of The Royal, St Leonards-on-sea, chooses four of his favourites

The Grape

Forever associated with the Burgundy region of France, specifically Côte d'Or, this ancient variety of thin, black-skinned grape is used for not only the production of red wines but also world-class sparkling wines, including champagne. It's notorious for being hard to grow, with consistency hard to achieve.

The Taste

Obviously dependent on the region – and even vines from the same vineyard can produce different outcomes – but you can expect a lightness of touch. It's not a punch-in-the-face flavourful red, but you'll find cherries, raspberries and wild strawberries in younger bottles, and gamey, truffly flavours as it matures.

The Vines

Although Burgundy is home, Oregon and California are also famed for this red, with New Zealand now known for producing accessible bottles – albeit slightly less sweet. Austria and Germany have also been known to produce good-quality pinot noir, with the latter being the third biggest producer of the grape.

The Pairings

The brightness of flavour means you should avoid going heavy on sauces, but it's also adaptable and capable of coping with duck, grouse, hare, pheasant, venison, wild mushrooms, beef and even fatty fish (salmon and tuna). Given the variance in flavours, it's best to pick your pinot noir first, then find the food to match.

The Venue

The Royal occupies a historic corner of St Leonards, its site dating back to 1860. Today, it serves as a welcoming pub where seasonal produce, sophisticated dishes, and an impressive wine list have made it a lively hotspot for locals and visitors alike.

theroyalstleonards.co.uk