Vermentino

Calling Sardinia home this white is the perfect match for Mediterranean flavours. Florent Giovannone, head of wine for Notting Hill’s new Caia, chooses four top vermentinos to try

The Grape

Although theories it originated in Spain or even the Middle East abound, vermentino is famed in Italy, specifically Sardinia, but also in the north-west and Tuscany. It is, in fact, identical to pigato of Liguria and favorita of Piedmont, with rolle found in Provence also sharing striking similarities. While it’s primarily beloved for its whites, it’s also used for sweet wines and sparklers.

The Taste

The straw-coloured wine is sometimes compared to sauvignon blanc, with lime, grapefruit, apple and peach, and tropical pineapple and mango in sunnier climes, plus floral notes. It has nice acidity and seaside planting gives it a touch of salt.

The Pairings

Its origins by the sea, and specifically Sardinian island life, make it a great match for the Mediterranean diet, especially seafood, from grilled fish to octopus, squid and shellfish. Anything that finds itself above the coals – vegetables, chicken – works well too, as do goat’s cheese and salty pre-dinner snacks.

The Vines

Sardinia is its spiritual home and DOCG Vermentino di Gallura, in the north, is the island’s only DOCG. But, aside from having twins in Liguria and Piedmont, and a sibling in France, the grape has also taken root in the islands of Corsica, Malta and Madeira, as well as further afield in USA, Australia and Lebanon.

2021 Vermentino, Domaine Les Yeuses, Languedoc-Roussilon, France

Melon and apple flavours and very sharp, refreshing acidity make this a very approachable bottle – perfect for a sunny lunch or apéritif.

Available at:£9.95, leaandsandeman.co.uk

2021 Vermentino, Domaine Les Yeuses, Languedoc-Roussilon, France

2020 Samas, Agricola Punica, Sardinia, Italy

A crisp and fresh vermentino with a touch of chardonnay – expect hints of kiwi, melon, pineapple, a lot of citrusy flavours. Extremely refreshing and wonderful with white fish.

Available at:£16, robersonwine.com

2020 Samas, Agricola Punica, Sardinia, Italy

2021 Pigato Vermentino, Koerner, Clare Valley, South Australia

This wine has been made with 20 hours of skin contact and is aged on lees for seven months, which gives it lovely floral and stone fruit flavours and high acidity.

Available at:£29, quaffology.co.uk

2021 Pigato Vermentino, Koerner, Clare Valley, South Australia

2016 Pagus Camila Vermentino, Poggio al Tesoro, Tuscany, Italy

Dry, fresh and highly mineral vermentino produced in deep, sandy soils. The result is subtle flavours of green olive, artichoke and fresh herbs as well as great length.

Available at:£66.10, hedonism.co.uk

2016 Pagus Camila Vermentino, Poggio al Tesoro, Tuscany, Italy

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