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Viognier
A peachy, full-bodied white that makes the perfect partner for fruity, spiced dishes – Anna Dolgushina, co-founder and sommelier at London’s Firebird, walks us through her four top viogniers
The Grape
The yellowy-green grape needs a long (but not too hot) season to develop its potential. Once its sole domain was the northern Rhône Valley in France, but since the Eighties its popularity has grown the world over. Its origins are unclear but one story has it arriving France with the Romans from what is now Croatia. Another says pirates stole it from a cargo ship travelling along the Rhône.
The Taste
Full-bodied, peach, apricot and apple flavours and floral notes – think honeysuckle and jasmine. More complex, aged wines vary from country to country (Australians can have more citrus) and they’re creamier when oak-aged.
The Pairings
Dishes that bring sweetness and spice together – lighter spiced curries and Asian dishes – work well, as do meat and fruit dishes such as a tagine with apricots, or pork with sage and apple sauce. Creamier oak-aged wines go well with cheeses such as brie and camembert.
The Vines
So popular has the grape grown that Australia initiated an International Viognier Day, held in April. Vines are also found in South Africa, California, New Zealand, Portugal, Canada, Spain, Italy and even Israel.
2018 VIOGNIER, YALUMBA, EDEN VALLEY, AUSTRALIA
Pure aromas reminiscent of fresh apricots, ginger, saffron and fresh white flowers. The palate is long, rich and luscious, with intense and expressive stone fruit flavours and hints of orange peel.
Available at:£17, flagshipwines.co.uk
2020 VIOGNIER, PAGO DE VALLEGARCÍA, CASTILLA LA MANCHA, SPAIN
From vineyards planted at 850m altitude in the mountains of Toledo. this is complex and structured. There’s a greater ripeness in the fruit and a good balance on the palate.
Available at:£24, vinissimus.co.uk
2020 LE MAI POLIDA, MAS DE L’ESCARIDA, ARDÈCHE, FRANCE
Vinified with indigenous yeasts, without sulphites, this is neither filtered nor fined in order to preserve the aromatic expression. Oodles of tropical fruit, with a prominent peachiness, plus freshness and acidity to help keep the fruit in check.
Available at:£24.50, nativevine.co.uk
2019 CONDRIEU, STÉPHANE OTHÉGUY, NORTHERN RHÔNE, FRANCE
Outstanding wine from 1.5ha of vines planted in steep, rocky vineyards. On the nose, you notice zesty pear skin and stone fruits and there’s a teasing, alluring quality on the finish that builds and builds, with the granite terroir playing its hand.
Available at:£68, gnarlyvines.co.uk