Word on the vine - Fiano

Once name-checked by Pliny the Elder, this Italian grape later disappeared. Now, once again, fine dry whites are being made

THE GRAPE
The classic white grape of Campania, the region surrounding the Bay of Naples, was made into wine at least as far back as Roman times and was mentioned by Pliny the Elder. Today it produces medium-bodied, age-worthy dry wines, the best of which are labelled as Fiano di Avellino after the town to the east of Naples. Campanian fiano is regarded as one of the finest Italian whites but the grape is grown throughout southern Italy, most notably in Sicily.

THE TASTE
The hills around Avellino are famous for hazelnuts, and the oak- aged DOCG wines designed for ageing develop a nutty character alongside waxy honey notes: think along the lines of a bar of nougat poured into a glass. Young, bone-dry styles of fiano are fresher and more tropical, with stone fruit, melons, mango and citrus.

THE PAIRINGS
Proximity to the Bay of Naples and southern seas means fiano is a good match for seafood dishes or anything with a dash of salinity. Try a Caesar salad, a creamy salmon pasta, salt-baked fish or fresh seafood with a squeeze of lemon. Older wines have the structure to stand up to white meat such as roast chicken or pork, and spicy Thai and Sichuan pairings also work well.

THE VINES
The volcanic soil around Naples was planted with vines by the ancient Greeks, but by the Seventies fiano had largely disappeared from Campania. Today, winemakers have revived this ancient grape, planting vines in a landscape of mountains, valleys and coastal plains, with grapes grown amid chestnut trees and olive groves. The best wines come from grapes planted on hillsides, where temperatures are ideal – hot days allow for full ripening while cool nights mean aromatics and acidity are preserved.

This article was taken from the June/July 2024 issue of Food and Travel. To subscribe today, click here.