Bryn Williams

The proud Welshman and chef-patron at Primrose Hill stalwart Odette’s talks to Fleur Rollet-Manus about his love of vegetables, sourcing quality produce and his favourite proper old-school boozers

You’ve just got married and Odette’s has just turned 40. How did you celebrate?

I took ten days off after the wedding for our honeymoon. We went on a road trip through Champagne, Paris, Nice and Provence. In the South of France I ate courgettes almost every day: platefuls of deep-fried courgettes washed down with a bottle of rosé. I was completely in my element.

You work with a lot of small producers. Who should we use?

Oinc Oink, based in Wales, is absolutely incredible for pork. Equally good is Daphne’s Original Welsh Lamb from the Elwy Valley. For as long as I remember, I’ve been using Keltic Seafare for scallops.

How did your passion for quality vegetables take root?

Three of my uncles own farm shops and as kids my brothers and I used to get on our mother’s nerves. She’d lock us out the house and tell us to go pick spuds and carrots. We’d bring them back and they’d be on the table within two hours. It really inspired me from a young age.

Where’s the best place you’ve eaten recently?

La Colombe d’Or, near Nice. I had the tuna foie gras with a sea urchin jelly, followed by turbot on the bone with beurre blanc and garden vegetables. Three or four ingredients on a plate is all you need.

Where would you go for coffee near the restaurant?

The Little One in Primrose Hill. It’s absolutely tiny and any more than three people in there feels packed, but the coffee is amazing.

Where do you and the brigade go for drinks?

Right next to Chalk Farm tube station is an old boozer called The Enterprise. It’s got brilliant music, great local beers and decent ales. It’s just what you need for a quiet drink in your chef whites after service.

What about for dinner?

If I’m in London, I’ll go to Roka in Charlotte Street with my family, but when I’m in Wales, it’s the White Horse in Hendrerwydd. It’s a proper country pub with a log fire and we had my dad’s birthday there last year. I always call to check they’ve got the scallops and black pudding on the menu. If so, I’ll be tucking in.

What did you learn from Michel Roux Jr at Le Gavroche?

He’s the king of man management. Growing a bit older and making the transition from chef to chef-owner, I’ve realised that’s so important. He just got the best out of everyone all the time and that’s definitely something I’ve tried to mimic in my own business.

Where are you travelling to in 2019?

I’ve just booked Eurostar tickets to see France vs Wales in the Six Nations in Paris. Then in August I’ll go to Ibiza – we’ve been going as a family for eight years. Santa Gertrudis is in the centre of the island and is surrounded by great restaurants using local produce. Strangely enough, there’s a really good Italian restaurant called Macao Café – it does the best tiramisu outside of Italy. I want to get back to New York, too.

Which chefs do you have your eye on for 2019?

Oli Boon and his upcoming restaurant is one to watch, as is my old head chef at Odette’s, Jamie Randall. He’s now at Adelina Yard in Bristol.