Steve Smith

The Midlands chef helms Michelin-starred Bohemia in St Helier, and loves London’s cocktails and Barcelona’s tapas bars. A champion of Jersey produce, he’s inspired by Italy too, says Imogen Lepere

Where did you last go on holiday?

I did a tour of Italy last summer. Italian cuisine is comforting and constantly surprises you. Just walking down the street in Bologna you’ll see a little shop where people are making pasta by hand; you get a pot of tagliatelle with meat ragù and shaved parmesan for just five euro. We also ate at Osteria Francescana in Modena, which has been on my hit list for a while – the 12-course experimental menu was amazing and technically faultless.

What makes Jersey’s natural larder so special?

When the royals are in season, they’re the best in the world. We also have the best milk in the UK. It’s rich and a little fatty, great for ice cream. There’s an abundance of exceptional seafood; when the tide’s really low, if you wade out to thigh level and look down, you’re walking with mackerel and bass.

What’s your favourite ingredient?

Salt. It’s the only thing that can make a good dish great. An average soup can become excellent with one sprinkle. I mostly use Maldon.

Where do you take your brigade after service?

The Blind Pig in St Helier is a hidden spot where I like to go for cocktails. Barcelona is a fantastic food city. We stumbled on Tapas 24 because it had a line of locals queuing to get in. It was cheap as chips and everything tasted brilliant. It doesn’t matter where you go as long as you feel you’re getting value for money.

Who are your food heroes?

Chefs who have been able to perform at a consistently high level for a long time. If I had to name names, I’d say Phil Howard from The Square and Michel Roux – who has been cooking excellent food for more than 50 years. It’s the same for suppliers. I’ve bought game from Jon at Cartmel Valley for most of my working life.

You got your first Michelin star aged just 24. Was it difficult to stay motivated?

All I wanted to do then is what I still want to do – constantly improve the food I’m serving. It could go to some people’s heads, but you just can’t allow yourself to be over-awed. I know I can always improve.

What’s your favourite meal of the day?

Breakfast. You can go all out with a full English or just have muesli and Jersey yoghurt. My favourite is lightly toasted sourdough, with scrambled eggs and a couple of rashers of streaky bacon.

What’s the best city in the world for bars?

At the moment it’s London. Nightjar in Shoreditch is a favourite because it’s not overly pretentious. Portobello Star is also a great bar and it’s just down the road from The Ledbury, so there’s always an excuse to go for a few drinks after dinner.

We’re buying: what’s your standard order?

If I don’t know a place I always order a mojito. It’s a simple cocktail, so if they can’t make that right it’s your cue to go to a different bar.

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