Muslim-spiced curry of beef short rib (gaeng massaman neua)

Serves 8 Starters and mains

Beef shortrib curry

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Ingredients

  • 1kg beef short rib, cut into 10cm pieces by your butcher
  • 3tbsp fish sauce
  • 1 litre coconut milk
  • 8cm piece cassia bark, toasted
  • 2 star anise, toasted
  • 4 white cardamom pods, toasted
  • dried peel 1 mandarin
  • 2 bay leaves
  • 6–8 medium Jersey Royal potatoes, peeled
  • 200ml coconut cream, plus an extra splash
  • 2tbsp palm sugar
  • 2tbsp fish sauce
  • 3tbsp jumbo golden sultanas
  • 2tbsp tamarind water or concentrate
  • 2tbsp fried shallots (see Cook’s note)
  • jasmine rice, to serve

For the massaman curry paste

  • 1/2tbsp shrimp paste
  • 1tsp coriander seeds, toasted
  • 1/2tsp cumin seeds, toasted
  • 2 cloves, toasted
  • 1 mace sheath, toasted
  • 1/2tsp crushed fresh nutmeg, toasted
  • 1/2tsp white peppercorns, toasted
  • 3tbsp thinly sliced lemongrass (root and outer husks removed)
  • 2tbsp chopped galangal
  • 1tbsp chopped fresh ginger
  • 1tbsp chopped fresh coriander root or stem
  • 4tbsp chopped banana shallot
  • 4tbsp chopped garlic
  • 10 dried long red chillies, deseeded and soaked in coldwater for 15 minutes until soft
  • 1tsp salt

Method

Preheat the oven to 160C/140C F/Gas 3. To make the curry paste, wrap the shrimp paste in foil and dry-toast in a pan over a low heat for 2 minutes or until fragrant, flipping once.

Grind the toasted coriander seeds, cumin seeds, cloves, mace, nutmeg and peppercorns to a fine powder. Add the lemongrass, galangal, ginger, coriander root, shallot and garlic to a wok or deep frying pan set over a medium heat and drytoast for 10 minutes.

Pound in a pestle and mortar until smooth, then add the ground spices and remaining paste ingredients.

Roll the beef in the fish sauce, then sear in a hot, dry pan over a high heat for 5 minutes to give a golden colour and crust – there should be enough rendered fat to prevent it from sticking. Set aside and reserve the rendered fat.

In a large pan, combine the coconut milk, cassia bark, star anise, white cardamom, mandarin peel and bay leaves. Bring to the boil, then set aside.

Transfer the beef to an ovenproof casserole dish with a tight-fitting lid, then cover with the coconut milk and whole spices. Cover with a lid and braise in the oven for 2 hours or until the beef is soft and falling from the bone without completely collapsing on itself.

Strain the braising liquor and set aside; you should have approx. 500ml. Leave the beef to cool slightly before slicing into 2.5cm pieces. Cook the potatoes in a large pan of lightly salted water for 8–10 minutes, then strain and set aside.

Combine the thick coconut cream with the reserved rendered fat in another large pan and warm over a medium heat for 3 minutes or until the cream separates, the thinner liquid evaporates and the surface develops an oily sheen. Add 4tbsp of the curry paste and cook for another 13 minutes or so until incorporated and the mixture darkens and becomes fragrant. Season with the sugar and fish sauce, allowing these to cook into the paste before adding the reserved braising liquor. Bring to a simmer and cook for another 8–10 minutes.

At this point, you should have a sauce of pouring consistency. Add the sliced beef to the sauce, along with the sultanas and potatoes, and warm for 1 minute.

Leave to stand for 5 minutes, then add the tamarind water. Serve with the rice, a splash of coconut cream and the shallots.

COOK’S NOTE If making your own fried shallots, follow the recipe for fried garlic and fragrant garlic oil, swapping garlic for 200g shallots, peeled, halved lengthways and sliced very thinly.

This recipe featured in the June 2022 issue of Food and Travel. To subscribe, click here.

Recipes and photographs taken from Kin Thai by John Chantarasak, photography by Maureen M Evans (Hardie Grant, £22).
Beef shortrib curry
Recipes and photographs taken from Kin Thai by John Chantarasak, photography by Maureen M Evans (Hardie Grant, £22).

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