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Serves 4 Starters and mains
To make the chive oil, blanch the chives in boiling water, then refresh under cold running water and pat dry. Put in a mini-processor with 1tbsp of the sunflower oil and whizz to a purée, then add the rest of the oil and whizz again. Strain through a muslin-lined sieve over a bowl in the fridge overnight.
To clean the clams, soak for 2 hours in cool, salted water, first discarding any that have cracked shells or do not close after being tapped on the side of a bowl. Meanwhile, peel the celeriac and cut in half. Chop one half into 2cm chunks and the other into small cubes. Melt half the butter in a pan with half the oil, then add the 2cm chunks of celeriac. Cook, stirring, for a few minutes, add 200ml boiling water, cover and cook on a medium heat for 10 minutes. Remove the lid, lower the heat and cook for up to 10 minutes, stirring continuously, until very tender and the liquid has evaporated. Tip into a processor.
Add the cream to the pan, along with 150ml water and the small pieces of celeriac. Cook until soft, then drain through a sieve to catch the cooking liquid. Set the celeriac aside. Place the liquid into the processor, then whizz to a purée.
Drain the clams and rinse well under cold running water. Put the fish stock in a large pan, add some salt and bring to the boil. Add the clams, cover and cook for 3 minutes, shaking occasionally, until they open. Drain through a sieve over a bowl to collect the juices, and set aside, discarding any clams that have not opened.
Heat the remaining butter and oil in the same pan and fry the lardons for 3-4 minutes until starting to brown. Lift onto a plate. Add the onion and sweat for 4 minutes. Add the lemon thyme and bay leaves and cook gently for a further 5 minutes until the onion is soft. Pour in the clam stock (leaving any grit behind in the bowl), celeriac purée and the reserved celeriac.
Heat for a few minutes, stir in the lardons and clams, season to taste and heat for 1 minute more.
To serve, ladle into bowls then dot with chive oil and scatter with the red-veined sorrel leaves.
Any extra chive oil can be kept refrigerated in a jar for 3 days.
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