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Serves 4 Starters and mains
Mix a pinch of salt into the yoghurt and spoon into a muslin-lined sieve set over a bowl. Transfer to the fridge and leave the yoghurt to drain overnight.
Put the sugar in a pan with 1.5 litres water and leave to dissolve over a medium heat. Wash and peel the quince and cut into quarters lengthways (no need to core), adding them to the pan as you go. Cover with a circle of baking paper and place a plate on top to keep the quince below the water line. Bring to a gentle simmer, half-cover with a lid and poach for 45 minutes.
Take out the quince from the liquid with a slotted spoon. Cut carefully into the stalk end and gently peel out the core. Cut each quince quarter in two. Remove to a plate lined with kitchen paper and pat dry.
Preheat the oven to 220C/425F/Gas 7. Toss the quince pieces in the rapeseed oil, place on a foil-lined baking tray and roast for 40 minutes, until the quince have turned a brighter rosy colour and the edges are charred in places.
Grill the sliced pancetta for 1 minute on each side, then leave to crisp up on a plate covered with kitchen paper.
For the pistachio dukkah, put the pine nuts and pistachio nibs in a pestle and mortar and grind them lightly. Add all the other dukkah ingredients and grind to a crunchy crumb. Set aside.
Put all the dressing ingredients in a jar, screw the lid on tightly and shake until emulsified.
Put the quince and spinach in a serving dish and pour over the dressing. Toss gently, then spoon over the labneh. Mix a little salt into the dukkah mixture and scatter over the salad. To serve, drizzle the salad with rapeseed oil in a zig-zag pattern.
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