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Serves 6 Starters and mains
For the winter salsa, put the garlic and anchovies into a large pestle and mortar and crush to a paste. Add the onion, pickles, capers, hazelnuts and parsley and pound a little more to make a chunky mixture. Work in the vinegar and oil and season to taste. Place in a serving bowl, cover and chill until ready to serve.
To roast the cauliflower, preheat the oven to 220°C/425°F/Gas 7. Break both cauliflowers into large chunks leaving the stalk and green leaf intact. Plunge the cauliflower chunks into boiling salted water in two batches for about a minute. Remove them with a slotted spoon and drain well in a colander. Tip onto a clean cloth and leave for a few minutes.
Meanwhile, heat the oil in a heatproof roasting tin on top of the stove. Add the dry cauliflower pieces and the garlic and turn them in the hot oil to colour on all sides, it takes a minute or so. Season and place in the oven for about 7 minutes until a little more charred (it should retain a little bite). Serve with the salsa and lemon.
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