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Serves 6 Starters and mains
Pour the wine and 2.5 litres water into a large roasting tin (mine is 26cm × 36cm × 8cm), then add the celery, fennel, fennel fronds, peppercorns, lemon slices, whole tarragon leaves and capers. Place over medium–high heat and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium and simmer for 10–12 minutes.
Add the fish, skin-side down, and simmer for 5 minutes, spooning the liquid over the fish now and then (if the fish protrudes out of the water, push it back down so it is immersed in liquid). Turn off the heat and leave the fish to stand in the water for a further 10 minutes; it will continue to cook in this time.
Meanwhile, for the sauce, place the egg yolk, vinegar, lemon juice and a pinch of salt in the bowl of a food processor. Mix on high speed, adding the oil in a thin, steady stream – you’ll end up with a thick, glossy mayo.
Add the mustard, some white pepper and the finely chopped tarragon leaves and mix. Pour in the champagne or wine and mix just briefly so the mixture stays light and creamy.
To serve, carefully remove the poached fish using two spatulas and place on a serving platter. Scatter chopped lemon thyme over the fish and grind over some pepper. Serve with the sauce drizzled on top.
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