Twice cooked cally jackets with crispy leeks

Makes 12 halves Starters and mains

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Method

Preheat the oven 200°C/400°F/ Gas 6. Prick the potatoes with a thin skewer in a few places and place in a foil-lined tray in the heated oven. Bake for about 1 hour until soft-cooked inside and the skins are pale golden.

Meanwhile, prepare the crispy leek topping (you can make this in advance, cool it and keep it in an airtight container lined with kitchen paper). Cut the leek in half lengthways and then into 4 across. Shred thinly lengthways.

Heat the oil in a medium-sized saucepan and line a plate with kitchen paper. Test the oil by frying a few shreds of leek. If they sizzle, the oil is hot enough. Fry in batches (take care the oil doesn’t get too hot or it may burn the leeks – adjust heat as necessary) until pale golden. Lift out of the oil with a slotted spoon and drain on the lined plate. The leeks will crisp up as they cool.

Cut the soft-cooked potatoes in half lengthways. With a teaspoon, scoop the soft flesh out into a bowl, leaving the skins intact. Arrange the skins, cut side up, back on the tray so they prop each other up and don’t collapse. Bake for a further 8 minutes.

Meanwhile, mash the potato flesh with the milk and 30g butter until smooth. Add mace; season with sea salt and freshly ground white pepper.

Cook the chopped leek in 10g butter and a splash of olive oil. Stir so it doesn’t fry but wilts until just soft. Mix into the mash to make the cally and check seasoning. When the skins are ready, divide the cally between them. At this point you can leave them to cool and bake later. When you’re ready, bake for about 20 minutes until tinged with golden spots. Serve with a tangle of crispy leek on top.