Venison burgers

Serves 4 Starters and mains

Screen Shot 2019 08 22 at 16 52 17

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For the burgers

  • 1tbsp olive oil
  • 1 onion, peeled and finely chopped
  • 800g minced venison, preferably shoulder and flank
  • 80g bone marrow
  • 4tsp ground ivy (a herb of the mint family), finely chopped
  • 4 slices Cheddar cheese

To serve

  • 4 brioche burger buns
  • 8tbsp smoke-roasted wild garlic mayo (see recipe, below)
  • few lettuce leaves
  • 2 tomatoes, sliced
  • 1 red onion, peeled and sliced into rings
  • 2-3 pickles, sliced lengthwise
  • 4tbsp proper horseradish sauce (See recipe, below)

Smoke-roasted wild garlic mayo

  • 1 head garlic
  • 1 small bunch wild garlic leaves, finely chopped
  • 400ml mayonnaise

Proper horseradish sauce

  • 120g freshly grated wild horseradish roots (around3-4 roots, depending on size foraged – if you can’t find wild horseradish, you can use 2 shop-bought horseradish roots instead)
  • 150ml apple cider vinegar
  • 1tsp salt

You will need

  • mincer
  • pestle and mortar
  • medium jar (around 455ml volume), sterilised
  • small preserving jar (around 250ml volume), sterilised

Method

Heat the oil in a small frying pan over a medium heat, add the onion, cover and cook, stirring occasionally, for 10-15 minutes until the onion is softened and translucent. Then set aside and allow to cool completely.

While the onion is cooking, pass the minced venison and bone marrow through the mincer, using a coarse plate, so that the bone marrow is well broken up. Put it in a bowl.

Add the onion and ground ivy to the mince and mix thoroughly. Divide the mince mixture into 4 equal portions of 220g each.

Using your hands, shape each portion into a ball and then flatten it into a 2.5cm-thick burger. Put the patties on a plate and season with a little salt.

Heat a heavy cast-iron pan or heavy frying pan over a high heat. Put the burgers in the pan and, trying not to move them around, cook for 4-5 minutes until a solid crust starts to develop, then flip them over. Once flipped, immediately put the Cheddar slices on top. If possible, cover the pan with a lid to help melt the cheese and cook for a further 3-4 minutes.

Meanwhile, toast the brioche buns by the fire or in another pan.

Once cooked to your liking, build your burgers. Put the bottom of a brioche bun on each of 4 plates and add the toppings of your choice. We go for the mayo on the bottom, then the lettuce, burger, tomato, onion rings, pickles and a final flourish of wild horseradish sauce, then cover with the tops of the buns and serve.

Smoke-roasted wild garlic mayo

MAKES AROUND 450ML

Get your fire or barbecue going, or preheat a conventional oven to 200C/180C Fan/Gas 6. Put the garlic on the indirect side of the fire or barbecue or in the oven
on a baking tray and leave it to roast. Check it every so often; it’s done when it feels soft when you squeeze it. On the barbecue, the garlic should be ready in around 2-3 hours. In a conventional oven, it will take 30 minutes.

Once the garlic is done, pop each clove out of its skin, or break the head in half, put it in
a saucepan, cover with the lid and shake vigorously for around 30 seconds to magically peel the cloves. Put the cloves in a pestle and mortar and pound them into a paste, then spoon the paste into a mixing bowl.

Add the wild garlic and mayonnaise. Season with salt and pepper, mix well and adjust the seasoning if necessary. Cover and store, chilled, for up to 3 weeks.

Proper horseradish sauce

MAKES AROUND 200G

Wash, scrub and peel the horseradish roots and, using a fine grater, grate the roots into a bowl until you have the desired amount. Put the grated horseradish in the preserving jar, add the vinegar and salt and stir well. Put the lid tightly on the jar and leave it to rest in a cool, dark cupboard at room temperature for at least 1 week for the fermentation to take place, then store, chilled. The horseradish sauce will keep for up to 6 months.

Tip: To prepare this amount of wild horseradish, I recommend working outside or in a well-ventilated area because once cut, wild horseradish can irritate the eyes and nose. Wear some kind of eye protection and try not to breathe in through your nose.

Recipe and photograph from Hunter, Gather, Cook: Adventures in Wild Food by Nick Weston. Photography by David Loftus (Guild of Master Craftsman Publications).
Screen Shot 2019 08 22 at 16 52 17
Recipe and photograph from Hunter, Gather, Cook: Adventures in Wild Food by Nick Weston. Photography by David Loftus (Guild of Master Craftsman Publications).

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