Welsh blue cheese puddings with Carmarthen ham crisps and charred dressed Welsh leeks

Serves 4

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Method

To make the vinaigrette, put the mustard, honey and cider vinegar in a screw-topped jar and shake to mix. Add the oil, 1tbsp at a time, shaking well between each addition until emulsified. If making in advance, store in the fridge until needed.

For the charred leeks, trim the baby leeks, cut a slit down the top dark green section to open them up a little and wash to remove any soil. Bring a pan of water to the boil, add some sea salt flakes and the baby leeks and, as soon as the water comes back to the boil, blanch for 2 minutes. Drain well and set aside on a tray lined with kitchen paper to dry.

Grease a baking dish approx. 23cm x 18cm x 6cm deep, or 4 individual ovenproof dishes (approx. 250ml) with butter. Trim the raw leeks, wash as before and cut into quarters lengthways, then across into roughly 1cm slices. Melt the butter over a low heat, add the leeks and stir for 4 minutes. Tip into a bowl, mix in the mustard and leave to cool completely.

Whisk the eggs and yolks together with a pinch of salt, black pepper and pul biber, if using, then whisk in the milk and cream. Spread cheese on each slice of bread, top with some mustard-covered leek and layer up in the dish or dishes. Pour the egg mixture over and set aside in the fridge for 2-4 hours, removing 25 minutes before cooking.

Preheat the oven to 180C/ 160C F/Gas 4. Cook the puddings in the oven for around 40 minutes until puffed and golden, covering with foil if overbrowning while still soft in the centre. Around 8 minutes before the end of cooking time, add the ham to the oven on a foil-lined baking tray and cook for 7 minutes to crisp up a little. Turn and cook for 1 more minute, then remove – it will crisp up further as it cools.

Meanwhile, to finish the charred leeks, take them off the kitchen paper and toss in the oil. Heat a ridged griddle pan over a medium heat, add the leeks and sear to heat through and char in golden stripes on both sides. Arrange to one side of 4 serving plates.

Divide the pudding and arrange on plates beside the leeks, or put the individual dishes on the plates. Top with a couple of crispy ham slices and drizzle vinaigrette over the leeks to serve.

FOR THE LAVER LOAVES

Put the seaweed flakes in a spice or coffee grinder and pulse to break up a little, without turning them into powder. Pour 325ml warm water into a jug. Put the flour in a large mixing bowl, add the butter and rub in using your fingertips until the mixture resembles fine breadcrumbs. Stir in the sugar, salt, yeast and ground seaweed and pour in the water, a little at a time, using your hands to knead until the dough leaves the side of the bowl.

Tip on to a floured work surface, knead until soft and elastic, then form into a ball. Smear the oil around the bowl, add the dough and cover with a clean cloth. Leave in a warmish place for around 1 hour until doubled in size, then tip on to a floured surface. Knead for 1 minute, cut in half and form each half into a 24cm baguette shape. Leave the dough to prove again for around 15 minutes.

Line a baking tray with a double-thickness piece of foil large enough to create 2 mounds that will support the long sides of the loaves. Preheat
the oven to 210C/190C F/Gas 6.

Put the loaves on the prepared tray, folding the foil to support the sides. Bake for 25 minutes until they are golden and make a hollow sound when tapped on the base. If the sides aren’t cooked enough, turn and cook for another 5 minutes. Transfer to a wire rack to cool completely.