Adam Handling Chelsea

Chelsea, London

If the Belmond group yearned for youthful cred in its newest hotel acquisition, it hit the bull’s-eye with Scottish chef Adam Handling. The rising star, known for his Frog venues in Hoxton and Covent Garden, and the Food and Travel Awards 2019 Chef of the Year, is said to have beaten legendary names to the role of chef-patron at the Cadogan, which relaunched this year. Sitting on Sloane Street, Adam Handling Chelsea is a mix of modern, open kitchen within more classical architecture. Honey-coloured parquet and light, panelled walls lend a relaxed feel. Truffled cheese-filled doughnuts and bite-sized king crab and chilli quiche come first – heavenly but overshadowed by a chicken-infused butter spread thickly on sourdough. I have dreamed of Handling’s ‘Mother’ starter of coiled celeriac, yolk, apple and date since watching him construct it on MasterChef, and it doesn’t disappoint. Highland beef, served with a meaty sauce, was as good as it sounds, and a dessert of sesame panna cotta, wild cherry blossom and pickled cherry sorbet a fitting and bang-up-to-date finale.

Words by Michelle Hather

020 8089 7070, adamhandlingchelsea.co.uk