Adam’s Restaurant

21A Bennett's Hill, Birmingham, West Midlands

Birmingham’s culinary reputation is a bit like the UK’s – outsiders, somewhat unjustifiably, like to make fun of it. But as with the country as a whole, things have moved on, and these days, Brum boasts more Michelin stars than any UK city outside London. Since November, it has another in its ranks. Adam Stokes first achieved the feat at Glenapp Castle in Scotland, and has repeated the trick within six months of opening his eponymous restaurant in a former sandwich bar. The accolade is richly merited – this is consummate cooking of rare, understated confidence. A tender sea bream was imaginatively rendered with crispy skin and the delicate sweetness of orange-flavoured buckwheat; Jerusalem artichoke was done three ways (purée, crisp and fried); while an imposing-sounding whiskey, cream, chocolate and honey dessert was light and dreamy. All were from the five-course tasting menu (£50), the only other dinner option being a nine-course version (£80). Enjoy the intimate setting while you can – Stokes plans larger premises next year. He won’t lack for takers. GW.