Amaz

Av. la Paz 1079, Miraflores, Peru

A plate of giant river snails isn’t necessarily what you’d expect in sophisticated Lima, but Peruvian chefs are bent on pushing the envelope in their native land. While others have taken Nikkei and Chifa – the Japanese and Chinese fusion cuisines of the capital – to the limit, others have been exploring the hinterland, from the Andes to the Amazon and beyond. Pedro Miguel Schiaffino didn’t get into The World’s 50 Best Restaurants by holding back, and having made his name in Lima with Malabar, he has gone all-out to introduce the capital’s sophisticates to jungle food at Amaz. In the muted dining room, above and behind a bright, airy bar, where giant wicker shades and sludge-green walls offer a nod to the menu’s regional origins, the churos – giant snails, drizzled with chorizo oil – are the thing to order.

Carefully gathered by tribal folk in Iquitos, they are earthy and delicious, if a little terrifying to behold; tapioca pearls reinforcing the textural challenge the diner must face in tackling this signature dish. The chonta, or heart of palm, salad is an easier swallow, as are the green bananas, served in combination with fish. But don’t expect Amazonian ceviche – ‘I’ve still to find a river fish I’m happy to serve raw,’ confesses Schiaffino. The experience is no worse off for it. AG.