Ametsa with Arzak Instruction

Halkin St, London

Few openings in the capital this year are as anticipated as that of this London offshoot of Spain’s three-Michelin starred Arzak. Like the original, it’s overseen by father and daughter Juan Mari and Elena Arzak. Dishes, we’re told, are created in the Arzak ‘laboratory’ (note, not ‘kitchen’) in Spain, but the owners stress that, while they draw on the same Basque cuisine and techniques, this is not a replica of the San Sebastián original. It’s set within the Halkin hotel in Belgravia, an environment whose ambience lacks a little warmth (the grey décor doesn’t help, though the phallic ceiling is a talking point). We tried the £105 tasting menu, where the Arzaks’ technique is to the fore. ’From Egg to Chicken’ sees a slow cooked but runny egg float in a broth studded by chicken skin crutons, while ‘Red Skin Sardines’ is a striking contrast of sweet blood orange and salty fish. Desserts were the highlight, particularly the clever Basque Toast with Mango and Coconut: the brioche becomes the filling, encased in mango. At a time when many UK chefs are discarding the intricate dishes of tasting menus, it will be interesting to see if London takes this supreme exponent of the style to its heart. GW. 020 7333 1234