Aquavit

St James's Market 1 Carlton Street, London SW1Y 4QQ

Forget the starkness associated with the coolest cuisine around, dining here is like stepping into Twenties New York. Not surprising given it’s from the team at Emma Bengtsson’s two-star Manhattan restaurant. A modern menu comes laden with pretty plates of forest finds such as game, wild mushrooms and berries. Start with a smörgåsbord heaving with crunchy pickles and fresh shrimp and herring from the icy North Sea. For mains, meatballs of the highest order are served with tart lingonberries and pickled cucumber. Round it off with salted liquorice burnt cream.