Lisbon, Portugal

Lisbon is a city with a restaurant scene defined by sticky-tabled pastelarias and linen-shrouded fine diners. Suave, sophisticated BAHR has recently sauntered into the space in between. More than 25 years after he left his home city, El Bulli-trained Nuno Mendes has returned, a prodigal son fresh from kitchens in London, New York and Asia. You can taste influences from all three in his multi-course menus, but traditional Portuguese techniques and unsung local ingredients remain the restaurant’s raison d’etre. Our meal begins with sourdough and a flocculent butter from the Azores, followed by amberjack carpaccio with pickled onions and a jubilant hit of orange zest. Next is glistening chorizo, to be scooped up with a hispi cabbage leaf and eaten with oily fingers; squid, sizzled for seconds on a josper grill and swimming in seaweed purée; and, finally, apple sorbet, fragrant with whisps of fennel frond. The team is young and talented, the riverfront terrace buzzing with well-heeled creatives sipping sparkling wine from DOC Vinho Verde, and the food, a tactile delight.

Words by Imogen Lepere

This review was taken from the April 2020 issue of Food and Travel.

To subscribe today, click here.

Get Premium access to all the latest content online

Subscribe and view full print editions online... Subscribe