Bibendum restaurant

Kensington

Arestaurant bearing the name of the Michelin Man needs to be worthy of his image. After bidding farewell to chef Simon Hopkinson in 2016 – who’d been involved with the restaurant since its opening in 1987 – Bibendum found itself floundering, unable to reassert the identity it held as Michelin House through the Nineties. Enter Claude Bosi in early 2018, rejuvenated from a break after closing two-star Hibiscus. Within eight months, he weighed into the Michelin guide with two stars – an almost unprecedented achievement. And it’s well worthy of the rating: Bosi’s cooking sets the benchmark for modern French cuisine in London. Duck jelly, served with caviar, spring onion and smoked sturgeon, tastes like distilled essence of the best consommé you’ve ever tried, while vegetable ‘nosotto’ is a take on risotto, with rice replaced by a seasonal root vegetable. This time of year, parsley root is enriched with stock and topped with curry oil that deftly adds spice without overpowering. For main, Bosi’s signature Brittany rabbit served with langoustine and artichoke is worthy of the trip alone.

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