Chez Bruce

2 Bellevue Rd, Wandsworth Common, London

We raise a glass to this Wandsworth Common favourite, which celebrates its 18th birthday this year.

Chez Bruce first opened its doors in 1995, but came of age long before celebrating its 18th birthday earlier this year. Broadly speaking ‘modern British’ in style, with a French and Mediterranean influence, it quickly transformed itself from an understated neighbourhood venue to a Michelin-starred stalwart of the London dining scene.

Established on the site of Harvey’s, vacated by Marco Pierre White, the Bruce in question was Bruce Poole, a chef who, in character at least, couldn’t be more different from his predecessor. A history graduate who served as a trainee at a Stoke-on-Trent hotel, Poole was never going to follow the media circus favoured by celebrity chefs. Having learned his trade under Simon Hopkinson (Bibendum) and Phil Howard (The Square), he opened Chez Bruce with business partner Nigel Platts-Martin before adding The Glasshouse in Kew (1999) and La Trompette in Chiswick (2001, which re-opened after a two-month refurb as we went to press) to his small but perfectly formed empire.

Chez Bruce exudes quality and comfort. Service is immaculate, yet unfussy – and beautifully paced. ‘Relaxed, informal yet thoroughly professionally orchestrated,’ is what Poole is aiming at. The food is inspired by regional French cookery, but with a fresh, British interpretation. Signature dishes have long been the foie gras and chicken liver parfait with cured duck, quince, walnut and toasted brioche; cod with olive oil mash, provençale tomato and gremolata; and crème brûlée, which never leave the menu (‘we get complaints if they do’). Perhaps more indicative of Poole and head chef Matt Christmas’s style today would be the cod brandade fritter with grilled baby squid, piquillo pepper relish, aioli and mint – simply presented but bursting with Mediterranean flavour – or the perfectly tender spring lamb with glazed meatball, garlic and goat’s cheese. Glazed cheek and jowl of pork with polenta, grilled endive, pancetta and wild mushroom is rich but not heavy.

Slow-cooked braises are a specialty, and the cheese board is held in high regard. Foams and smoke, meanwhile, are conspicuously absent. ‘We are not particularly into gadgets and tricks in the kitchen and there are doubtless some who view our food as slightly old fashioned,’ says Poole. ‘We take this as a compliment.’ GW. 020 8672 0114