Coal Shed

London

It’s been hard to move in London in recent years for all the re pits, asadas and Argentine grills, so when one stakes a claim beyond the identikit steakhouse roll-out, it’s a very good thing indeed. Coal Shed has taken the reverse path of launching in Brighton, before being shipped to London, and is all the better for it: cooking techniques have been honed, service streamlined and produce perfected. When it opened in the shadow of City Hall last year, it hit the ground running. Coal- red meat and sh are order of the day, sourced from the UK’s best suppliers. When choosing a starter, the barbecue octopus with kombu and XO sauce and veal tartare will cry ‘order me’, although with a cooking medium as good as on show here, you’re best plumping for a grilled shell sh platter. A board groaning with prawns, langoustine, scallops, calamari, cooked oysters and clams is delicious and easily enough for four to share. Likewise a main of Moroccan-spiced goat. The pull-able, super-smoky shoulder comes with huge za’atar atbreads and a range of dips that will transport you straight back to the souk.