Colony

7-9 Paddington Street, London

Good news travels fast among London’s gastronomes, which explains why Atul Kochhar’s new restaurant, Colony, in Marylebone, is already doing a brisk trade. The Michelinstarred executive chef of Benares has teamed up with restaurateur Carlo Spetale in this latest venture, serving dishes inspired by the street food of colonial Asia. The restaurant’s USP is the bar that runs the length of the restaurant, keeping the cocktails and an array of tapas-style dishes flowing to the post-work crowd in the large lounge. From the concise but inspired supper menu we chose four dishes (they recommend four to six for two sharing). The pan-fried sea bass, with a ginger-infused coconut stew and garlic mash, was moist and well balanced. The chicken biriyani was tender, the meat served on a bed of mildly spiced root vegetables and baked rice. A duo of lamb meatloaf with rose petals and grilled lamb chop was a highlight, with a rich cardamom and pepper sauce that we mopped up with breads from the tandoor. Gram flour pancakes stuffed with paneer and spinach were livened up with a spicy tomato sauce. The only wobble was the over-salted tarka dal. A well-priced wine list held some surprises, such as an excellent Muscat de Frontignan. Desserts include peaches with cinnamon rice pudding, and a twist on the popular kulfi.