A 120-acre organic farm in south-east Cornwall feels like a pretty good place to set out your stall for ‘soil-centric’ farming practices and regenerative ingredients, especially when that stall not only has a restaurant but also a bakery, microbrewery and even a pottery. Crocadon, in the rolling hills of the Tamar Valley, is the kind of place we should be seeing more of as we focus on the impact of the way we produce what we eat, especially when we care how our tastebuds are treated. Ex-Simon Rogan Group chef Dan Cox seems to have found the best of both worlds, ensuring the farm cares for the soil and focuses on rare and heritage breeds of sheep and cattle, while delivering a menu inspired by the weekly harvest, be it turnips served with saddleback pork, or dwarf beans plated up with fig and leaf and basil. It’s all wonderfully symbiotic.

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