Enoteca

28 Putney High Street, London

This family-run Putney institution has been feeding the bodies and souls of its riverside locals for 25 years. Its authentic flavours and easy charm raise it head and shoulders above the other restaurants that smatter this affable south-west London borough.

Still run by founder Giuseppe Turi and his wife Pamela, the restaurant oozes Mediterranean charm. Walls are painted in varying hues of terracotta, the wooden floorboards are scrupulously polished and white tablecloths create an ambience that wouldn’t be out of place anywhere in Tuscany. There’s always a buzz in the dining room no matter the day of the week and the clientele have such a relaxed, proprietary air it quickly becomes clear that most are regulars.

When Turi arrived in London in the Eighties he trained as a sommelier at the Athenaeum Hotel before moving to the Connaught and his passion for wine is tangible. His cellar now boasts more than 300 bins from every wine-producing region in Italy, a collection that has been lovingly curated for a quarter of a century. He prides himself on offering good value by buying wines from great vintages and laying them down until they’re ready to drink. Look out for the Col Vetoraz di Valdobbiadene, a small-label sparkler produced among the steep hills of Cartuzze (considered Italy’s prime prosecco region); or, if you’re feeling celebratory, a bottle of Barolo Falletto di Serralunga from 1996 that is definitely worthy of a special occasion.

The menu delves deep into the pantheon of Italian cooking, uniting the different regions with a lightness of touch that reflects Giuseppe’s Puglian upbringing. Puglia’s cuisine is characterised by simplicity and freshness and these attributes abound in the restaurant’s food. Herbs and olive oil take priority over creamy sauces, making the traditional four courses a comfortable quantity.

Head chef Michele Blasi proves a deft hand when it comes to balanced flavour pairings: sharp lemon juice pierces velvety fava purée, sautéed mackerel gains depth from fennel and well-textured cantuccini biscuits cut through a glass of vin santo for a satisfying dessert. Authentic regional flavours in a fine dining format – bravo Enoteca Turi. JW.