Fera at Claridge’s

49 Brook St, London

Food geeks have been kept on the edge of their banquettes in anticipation of the capital’s opening of the year, two-Michelin-starred chef Simon Rogan’s debut at Claridge’s. So does it live up to the hype? As usual with Rogan, of course it does. He does this with plates that are technically impressive but somehow carefree – beautiful, without ever trying too hard. The glossy dining room, fitting for the address, has a dynamic, relaxed air as the tasting menus roll out of the open kitchen in hand-hewn Cumbrian wood bowls and Clapham-thrown pottery. Go the whole shebang (and you should) and we’re talking 18 or so courses including ‘snacks’, but Rogan isn’t playing a numbers game. Instead, the parade of dishes such as Gairloch prawns with borage and chicory, swaddled in pork fat; ember-grilled salad with truffled custard and sunflower seeds; or preposterously tender and juicy nettle-butter-braised plaice, are just right. As for ethereal desserts such as baked yoghurt with perry-poached pear, muscovado and a flash of fresh mint, well, they are worth geeking out about. AM.