Photos by Justin De Souza, SV Melnikoff; Zhezhavov
Georgian newcomer Kinkally; a new dimension to dumplings; restaurateur Diana Militski

Georgia has been on the oenophile radar some 8,000 years, give or take. But the food of the world’s oldest wine producing region rarely gets mentioned. Kinkally is trying to change that and, with a Georgian chef at the stoves, its hero is khinkali, a hearty Georgian dumpling they fill with, depending on a changing menu, meaty mussels; plump langoustines with tarragon and matsoni; and wagyu with a peppercorn plum sauce. There are plenty of other small plates to be had, such as a rabbit pâté with sweet nazuki bread and quince – akin to fruit cake with rabbit ice cream which, quite frankly, I’m here for. But food aside, Kinkally, and Bar Kinky downstairs – where they’re putting some quirky twists on classics and the staff might be the nicest people you’ll ever meet, and not just for free shots – is simply a fun night out.

Words by Alex Mead.

This review was taken from the February 2024 issue of Food and Travel. To subscribe today, click here.

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