Grain Store

Granary Square, King's Cross, 1-3 Stable St, London

The regeneration of Kings Cross continues apace. From dingy, seedy wilderness to vibrant, trendy hotspot, the area’s on-trend credentials now include a hip and happening (and rather good) place to eat. In keeping with its postcode, it’s an informal, bustling spot, all exposed brickwork and lightbulbs, complete with bar, terrace and a kitchen that isn’t so much open-plan as part of the dining room. The accent here is on vegetables, which Loubet makes the centrepiece of each dish – in name at least (any meat in a dish is listed last). So spiced mash, mint pickled cucumber, raw pink top turnips and broad beans adorn confit lamb belly, in a similar fashion to how dhal lentils, sweet banana pepper, and apple and red onion salsa grace sea bream. Cocktails are a major (if pricey) part of the offer, overseen by renowned mixologist Tony Conigliaro, with a distinct accent on herb and spice influences. Service is casual but informed, and the whole package comes across as unpretentious yet driven by intrinsic values of quality seasonal produce, imaginatively rendered. GW. 020 7324 4466