Kamimura

Japan, 〒044-0081 Hokkaido Prefecture, Abuta District, 倶知安町 山田190−4, 四季ニセコ1階

Chef Kamimura has excellent raw materials to get creative with, from mountain spring water from Mt Yotei to local organic vegetables and seafood plucked from the finest fishing waters in Japan. On the day we visited, chef (formerly of Tetsuya’s in Sydney) had just taken delivery of a rare, and sizeable, maitake woodland mushroom, which he proudly brought to show us in the dining room. It was served – lightly pan-fried, still crunchy, with a deep, earthy flavour – with thin slices of seared Hokkaido wagyu, as the sixth of eight fine courses. Other highlights included Hanasaki crab sprinkled with tiny, crunchy florets of broccoli, and a gazpacho made with Niki tomatoes as sweet as strawberries. The quality of Hokkaido’s produce is renowned, and Kamimura shows it suitable reverence, with simple combinations that let the flavours shine. A must-visit for those heading to Niseko for the powder this winter.