La Trompette

5-7 Devonshire Rd, Chiswick, Greater London

La Trompette was the last of the trio of restaurants to open, in 2001, under the joint ownership of restaurateur Nigel Platts-Martin and chef Bruce Poole. In the same fashion as Chez Bruce in Wandsworth Common and The Glasshouse in Kew, this west London stalwart, in leafy Chiswick, is an example of that rare breed – a neighbourhood restaurant of central London quality.

The most tangible distinction between W1 and W4, it seems, is a lack of formality, most visible here in the familiar, relaxed service. There’s a fine line between unstuffy and over-familiar, however, and it’s a line that La Trompette tightropes with care. Dining here is still an event – as it should be at a Michelin-starred restaurant. The other evident contrast is on the menu; not necessarily in the dishes or their presentation but in those all important numbers on the right-hand side – the prices. Forty- five pounds for three courses at dinner is a distinct bargain compared with many establishments of diluted quality four miles east of here.

The early part of this year has marked the most notable changes in the restaurant’s 12-year history, following a two-month refurbishment that saw the installation of a new kitchen and dining room, and the addition of private dining facilities. The same easy rhythm and flow permeates the room but the flavours in the kitchen have matured subtly under the direction of head chef Rob Weston, who joined after 15 years as Phil Howard’s head chef at The Square.

Maybe it was the season, maybe fashion, but we detected a slightly bolder, gutsier tone than has been the case when we have previously visited – a boudin of Yorkshire grouse sat among the starters alongside velouté of celeriac with pear, walnuts, roast partridge and a venison scotch egg, while the mains were punctuated by a richly caramelised suckling pig with roast carrots, späetzle, hazelnuts and apple, and roast fallow deer with hearty root vegetables, quince, juniper and roasting juices. The prevailing style remains delicate and elegant though, and the arrival (from Winchester’s Hotel du Vin) of Stephen Raducki as head sommelier, replacing the longstanding Matthieu Longuere, hasn’t diminished the quality and diversity of the wine list. GW. 020 8747 1836, latrompette.co.uk