Le Caprice

20 Arlington St, London

After ‘thirty years’ as a stalwart of the London dining scene, does Le Caprice still have what it takes?

Firstly it’s worth pointing out that the 30 years celebrated last year by the owners of Le Caprice actually mark its 1981 relaunch. As seasoned diners will know, the story begins some time before that. For it was Mario Gallati who left The Ivy to open the original back in 1945 – in doing so he took his lessons learnt from one institution to create another. From its first incarnation, Le Caprice became the place to lunch: Noël Coward, Brian Epstein, Ivor Novello – anyone who was anyone ate here. Over the years, Princess Margaret, Sir Peter Blake, Princess Diana and Bill Clinton all joined the glittering list of celebrity diners. In addition to the great and the good, today it still attracts a creative crowd: media people mixed in with gallery types and fiercely loyal regulars – the kind that so love what Le Caprice does that they never want it to change. It still has an air of effortless cool about it: all black-and-white tops, tables, floors and David Bailey portraits. And then a splash of 80s neon and plenty of mirrors and shiny bits and pieces gives it a comforting retro feel that makes you love it just for being Le Caprice.

But, for those who return so often, it’s not about the decor, nor is it about the piano playing gently easing you through your dinner – as lovely as that is. It’s about having a restaurant that runs like clockwork, consistently serving unfussy but incredibly tasty, quality dishes. You would call it ‘fine’ but definitely with a lower case – it has none of the pretension of starred eateries and that’s why it’s so special. Some things never leave the menu and that’s not due to lack of imagination in the kitchen, but because those regulars won’t allow it: crispy duck salad with pomelo and spiced cashews, steak tartare (a Paul Smith favourite), Thai-baked seabass (Liz Hurley’s must-have) and salmon fishcake with buttered spinach and sorrel sauce will be served as long as the doors remain open. Beyond that, when they add dishes it’s with aplomb. An Iberico pork chop is pretty much the tastiest you’ll ever try. Mention has to be made of Jesus Adorno: head waiter in 1981, the Bolivian is now the hands-on director who ensures Le Caprice remains as strong today as it ever was.