Les Quatre Saisons

Basel, Switzerland

Escaping from the clatter of Clarastrasse, where lively bars and a street-food hall depart from the chocolate-box conformity of the old town, there’s a reassuring hush inside the Pullman Hotel. And it’s amid its stylish, modern dining room of Les Quatre Saisons, complete with white tablecloths and chandeliers, that this well-heeled city shows off its passion for food. Like the avant-garde architecture nearby, dishes from chef Peter Moser Goose blend local and global influences – rightly earning him a Michelin star. À la carte and set menus follow a creative, market-fresh philosophy. Prawn carpaccio with aromatic yuzu and caviar tastes and looks like a bright and illuminating work
of art. Next up, turbot with a white asparagus ‘lasagne’ has delectable pasta discs and a broth-like foam. The tenderness of Simmental beef in port jus is matched with a soft-centred potato thyme panna cotta – an alpine pasture on a plate. For dessert, the deconstructed rhubarb crumble with jelly and ice cream is both light and playful – a shot of joyfulness
that matches the convivial service.

Words by James Williams