88 St John St, Clerkenwell, London
This sophisticated spot has all the makings of a modern classic. While its sister restaurant The Clove Club serves Michelin-starred plates in a pared-back setting, Luca’s glamour contrasts with its forthright food. The term ‘Britalian’ is a little laboured, but the focus on quality British ingredients through an Italian lens really works. Morecambe Bay shrimp in mace butter proves a natural companion to spaghetti, and salted gooseberries with olives is a fine way to start. The parmesan fries are light as churros, but the standout dish is canneloni bulging with decadent calf’s head ragu.