Marcellino

Jurjevska ul. 71, Zagreb, Croatia

The leafy, winding roads towards Medvednica mountain, north of Zagreb’s old town, is an area that few tourists see when they pound the pavement in the Croatian capital. But the trip up here is worth the effort, as self-taught Bosnian chef Mario Cerhak’s quirky, modern cooking and the eclectic vibe he has created at his multi-roomed restaurant, are something special. Vibrant, ergonomic furniture and eccentric art are the reflection of decades of collecting by Cerhak; there are scores of windows, but when balmy summer evenings approach you can opt to sit on the terrace, which is pressed against a forest of rustling trees. Cerhak dabbles in molecular wizardry, but for the most part focuses on classic Mediterranean flavours; simply dressed, but immensely flavourful broad beans, peas and asparagus are fried and topped with luscious olive oil and parmesan foam, while pasta mista is a sort of homage to the Italian flag – a green, red and white ravioli trio. Baked goose liver with apricots confit and lamb with a pepper lasagne rounds savouries off nicely, but try the warm cheese cream with cherry sauce before you head back to the bottom of the hill.