It can only be those in the know on Jersey cows have been fooling us for years, keeping the meat for themselves and just sending out their creamy, golden milk. The rich-tasting Jersey sirloin (from Cornwall) is one example of what makes Tomos Parry’s Mountain so good. His sourcing of ingredients is impeccable and, while others bang the provenance drum, Tomos – bringing together Spanish style with local produce – has next-level intel. Mountain is so brilliantly simple that only a culinary genius could make it work. In a buzzy Soho setting, this is great meat, great fish, cooked as it should be.

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