Nel

75 Wentworth Ave, Sydney NSW, Australia

British chef Nelly Robinson has defied Aussie convention by taking his restaurant out of the sun and underground. The darkly-lit, jazz-filled space near Central Station is already a hit with locals, thanks to the degustation dining at decent prices: three amuse-bouches, four savoury dishes, two desserts and petits fours for £42.

Trained in many a top-end kitchen and mentored by Nigel Haworth of Michelin-starred Northcote, Robinson’s food is playful and creative. The five-star tasting menu has the added extra of wine matches with a twist – two glasses teamed with two of the main courses to compare and contrast how different wines can complement a dish. His tongue-in-cheek, Northern humour shines throughout in whimsical ways, starting with snacks like thick-crumbed green peas and ham. Bite into trotters and cheek meat in little ham croquettes dipped in fragrant, minted puréed peas. Dishes crisscross the line of fine and casual dining brilliantly.

Our top picks were the soy-marinated, black- dusted quail’s egg sat atop a kombu floss nest, and savoury, tender slithers of venison carpaccio, layered thinly over chocolate soil and pickled red cabbage. RR. 00 61 2 9212 2206, nelrestaurant.com.au