Restaurant 6&24

In a city boasting no fewer than 80 museums, Restaurant 6&24 comes as welcome respite. Casting the à la carte menu aside, we settle down in the Horeca Sfeermakers-designed dining room – all copper and tan hues with a glorious tiled bar – and put our trust in chef Rik van de Laar’s eponymous ‘6&24’ menu, which simply requires one to opt for four, five or six seasonal courses, ‘meat and fish’ or ‘vegetarian’, with paired wines spanning native whites to a superb trio of reds.

After a glass of note-perfect blanc de noir, handpicked oysters from the Frisian island of Terschelling arrive, ultra-fresh and slurpable, followed by crustacean foam with shards of crisp chicken skin – a miraculous, savoury mouthful.

Sweetbreads with chorizo and black garlic are equally accomplished, the flavours unerringly balanced, while Madeira-drizzled bavette steak is butter-soft. Dessert – delicate, handmade chocolate orbs – and one of the finest cheeseboards we’ve encountered anywhere round things off to perfection.

Only open since January and already busy enough to require reservations most nights, this spot will make future Den Haag dining options infinitely easier, for which we are very grateful. And not a Vermeer in sight.