Restaurant Bareiss

1, Hermine-Bareiss-Weg, 72270 Baiersbronn

Each weekend the village of Baiersbronn in the Black Forest fills with gourmands flocking from Strasburg, Stuttgart, Baden-Baden, and further afield, to dine at the three local restaurants that between them hold seven Michelin stars. One is Restaurant Bareiss, run by Claus-Peter Lumpp, which has held three stars since 2007. Serving only 26 covers, Lumpp and his team emphasise quality and perfection – in the cuisine but also in the faultless service. A lobster tail and whole claw are poached and served warm, intact but with the shell removed, alongside crisp white local asparagus. Saddle of Maibok venison – sourced from Bareiss’ own hunt – is served three ways (as a steak, a ragù of shoulder, and ravioli) with aromatic herbs and elderflowers. Cod poached in olive oil is served with spicy cress seeds. Each dish is paired with a German wine from the 1,000-bottle list; sommelier Jürgen Fendt surprises with some excellent local drops. A dessert of crème Chiboust with vanilla, served with a rhubarb compote, was just light enough.