Roganic

19 Blandford St, London

It’s almost become cool to knock a place that cares about intricate detail or dares to make plates look pretty. Here’s a venue where, while the food looks stylish, it has substance. The first London project of L’Enclume’s Simon Rogan, the kitchen is headed by Ben Spalding, and offers two choices – six or 10 courses (£55 or £80). This is not everyday dining, but if you want to treat yourself, the excitement of multi-course eating is hard to beat. Especially when those courses include the sensational seawatercured Kentish mackerel with orache, broccoli and elderflower honey. The crisp-skinned mackerel is balanced perfectly with the honey (from Regent’s Park), and the broccoli has great crunch. Food here is ‘low mileage’, but that’s not the reason to go. Go instead for Spalding’s cooking: shredded ox tongue in a sourdough paper ‘sandwich’; roasted brill with chicken salt, cockles and ruby chard (the stuff of ‘surf and seed’ genius). Turnips have never been so exciting as they are when baked in salt with smoked yolk, sea vegetables and wild mustard. Spalding’s food is adventurous and delicious. Yes, it’s all about the detail. But when has that ever been a bad thing?