Rogano

11 Exchange Pl, Glasgow, Lanarkshire

First opening its doors in 1935, this Scottish staple blends art deco elegance with fine classic dishes

How many restaurants do you know that have been modelled after a cruise ship? Just like the Queen Mary – the supposed inspiration for the restaurant’s decor – Rogano is a little slice of art deco history, down to the neon sign that marks its place off Glasgow’s shopping hub, Buchanan Street. When it comes to the experience here, the term ‘faded grandeur’ doesn’t quite do it justice; dim and atmospheric, it’s just about possible to imagine you’ve been transported back several decades to a more genteel, golden age of travel. Sure, some things could use a bit of a spruce up, but overall it feels a bit special. Oh – and the seafood is pretty good too.

Originally transformed from a Spanish wine shop into a restaurant by an enterprising salesman in the early 1930s, Rogano has changed hands many times throughout the years – and its USP has altered with it. The restaurant has gone through a couple of incarnations – including a few dodgy drinking den years – but the furnishings are resolutely the same. Most of the detailing is original, including a fantastical art deco mural of a mermaid and the sea. Rumour has it that woodworkers from the Queen Mary paid for their meals with the wood panelling that now lines the golden yellow walls. There’s even a giant seashell plucked from the ocean, placed above the booth that Rod Stewart frequents when he’s in town – it seems Rogano can still attract the big names.

As for the food, it pays respect to the setting and nods to the restaurant’s history. You wouldn’t come here expecting cutting edge, faffy fish cookery – it just wouldn’t suit – rather, it’s all about the classics. For starters, the freshest oysters, prepared however you please – Rockefeller, Kilpatrick – but have a few au natural; they’re some of the fattest, satiny, saline sweet molluscs around. Scallops, big and meaty, come as a starter with bacon, or as a main on a bed of creamy, cheesy risotto. Lobster thermidor – where can you find that nowadays? – appears in all its 1950s-era glamour, while a sole meunière is just proper, solid cooking. As for pudding, the baked Alaska reveals why this was once a staple dessert; flavoured with pistachio and presented with a perfect swirl of meringue. Much like the Rogano, it’s as tasty as it is nostalgic. AEM. 0141 248 4055, roganoglasgow.com